When I start learning about patternmaking, I tend to question all the interesting costumes out there and ask myself if I could make one myself. is the result of my curiosity. How can you twist your waist like that? The bigger question is whether flat patterning can do that.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2005
I realized a simpler version of the twist waist and started brainstorming how to incorporate it into a knit dress. So you have to extend the pattern piece somehow. What about the side seams? Where and how much do you move the side seams to achieve this spiral drape look?
Before my brain started to burn, I found a source in a Japanese book. It answered all my questions. I’m talking about Patten Magic Volume 1 by Tomoko Nakamichi.
The second part of the book focuses on incorporating different types of twists into patterns. For the style I want to design he suggests adding length to both the waist and hips, so I followed the instructions and put the waist 3 cm below his and the hips 5 cm below Added to
The next puzzle is moving the side seams. If you want more twist, you need to move higher from the hip line. However, if the fabric is twisted, it will only stretch to its limit and will try to return to its original shape. So I recommend doing some trial and error to find the best amount of twist for your choice of fabric, here he suggests that the hipline move his 10 cm to the opposite side of the twist direction. I’m here. For my pattern, I moved it by 8 cm and connected the new side seam up to the armhole, as shown below.
Once the pattern piece is complete, simply sew the shoulder and side seams together. Then continue with the finishing touches such as the armholes and hem.
I am very happy with the results and one day I can take this twist to the next level and try a more dramatic look like McQueen 🙂
Enjoy your project!
If you have any questions, please send us a message. Subscribe to our blog to be informed of all future content.