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how to make a wool coat

What’s the best project to start a blog on this cold winter day? A white wool coat, of course.

During the last few difficult months, I have found extra comfort in concentrating on my passion, fashion design.A chance to clear my head and relax after a long day at work. I work full time during the day, so I have very little time to invest in my hobbies. The results are slow, but certainly very satisfying.

Sharing my creations online is also my motivation as I see many people interested in bespoke clothes and wanting their own clothes. So I decided to start this blog to share my passion with everyone who is interested in making their own clothes.

The first project is a winter coat inspired by Givenchy designs from the early 60’s. Elegance, function, flair & Japone are the keywords.

For the silhouette, we chose an A-line flared body with a funnel neck. The choice of fabric was perfect for this coat due to its weight.I chose a pearl white mohair wool fabric. It was my first coat with a lining, so I learned a lot of new techniques while making this coat.

Read on for more details 🙂

Also

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Inspiration

pattern making

sewing

final look

Inspiration:

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn formed a great friendship and had a great collaboration while Audrey was filming her classic movie.I love the statement coat that Givenchy designed for Audrey. This coat combines different aspects of her 60s Givenchy designs and was inspired by the following Audrey look.

Pattern making:

Before starting this coat pattern, I first made the base blocks of the coat for measurements. Once you have the coat foundation block, copy the pattern and start modifying it to design the pattern you need to achieve the desired look of the garment. I will make a post in the future and explain how to make your own foundation blocks.

I am using a book called Pattern Making in Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong I create all the base patterns and use the techniques she teaches in the book to achieve the look I want.

For this project, I used a basic coat foundation and matched the pattern to the kimono sleeves. I then added a style line to incorporate a hidden pocket and added a little more volume to the back of the coat. The mandarin collar principle was used for the neckline, while the drape technique was used for the mannequin to achieve the desired look.

After creating all the patterns, I create a mockup first to see what the result looks like. If necessary, modify the pattern before continuing to cut the original fabric required for the garment.I use cotton fabric for making mockups and later reuse it for other projects.

sewing:

Once you are happy with your design and have created the final pattern, it’s time to cut the fabric. I used mohair wool fabric for this project. fabric saleThis fabric has a heavy weight to it that will hold your design firmly in place. The lining uses a similar color silk fabric. The lining and outer fabric are all cut with the same pattern. I continued the sewing process by adding irons to the facing and neck areas.

Sewing is an area I am still unfamiliar with. As an engineer, I find it very easy to visualize 3D designs and create patterns. But I get so nervous when I have to get on the sewing machine 🙂 So I try to educate myself and learn the techniques I need when making new clothes.

For this coat, I used straight machine stitches and hand sewing techniques. Since I don’t have an overlock sewing machine yet, I hand stitched all the edges of the fabric. I used Claire Shaeffer’s book Couture Sewing for the construction and hand-stitched parts of the coat. Her writings provide excellent techniques for constructing high-quality haute couture her garments. I referred to the tips for hemming, binding, and making upholstered buttons.

Woman's hands sewing a white coat while drinking champagne

Enjoy the most important part of the process 🙂

Final Appearance:

woman in white
woman in white
woman in white
woman in white

Enjoy your project!

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cheers,

all

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