Richard Quinn, JW Anderson, and Nenshi Dojaka all paid tribute to the late monarch in their own unique way.
The motto for this London Fashion Week was simple. The show must go on. After Queen Elizabeth II died on her Sept. 8, there was a lot of speculation about what the next British fashion event would be. Should they cancel it? Will anyone actually participate? However, after a call between the British Fashion Council and a collective of designers, it was decided that yes, the show would go on.
While several brands, including Burberry and Raf Simons, have decided not to participate in the Spring 2023 season, brands that have taken the opportunity to honor the Queen’s legacy are: The model for Harris Reed carried a bouquet of lilies of the valley, one of the Queen’s favorite flowers. Christopher Kane said the floral prints in his collection are “symbols of love, death, celebration and condolences”.
Non-botanical salutes were also performed, such as a “thank you” T-shirt at JW Anderson, a candle at the SS Daily, and an ode to the blue gown worn by the Queen in 1957 at Michael Halpern. Opera.
Of course, the whole event was in a gloomy mood. — but there were also plenty of lighthearted moments. The runway saw a resurgence of tulle, absurd proportions and ’60s-inspired cottagecore. In addition, there was a dress that looked like a plastic fish bag. Below, we break down all the highs, lows and most viral moments from London Fashion Week Spring 2023.
Harris Reed: Queen of Yas
We’re not sure if Harris Reed is a fortune teller, but the fact that he chose Queen’s new frontman Adam Lambert to sing at their Spring 2023 presentation is more than just creepy. In fitting coincidence, Lambert serenaded the crowd with “Nessun Dorma” as the New York drag queen scene-inspired look made its way down the catwalk. It was the dramatic and quintessential Reed He collection, with models walking in 10-foot-wide cartwheel headpieces and equally wide crinolines. But the most meaningful moment was arguably the final white ballerina-esque look adorned with a bouquet of lilies of the valley in honor of Queen Elizabeth II. , no wonder Nina Ricci chose this designer as its new creative director.
JW Anderson: It’s a crazy, crazy world
When Jonathan Anderson packed guests into the Las Vegas Arcade in London’s bustling Soho district, he decided to explore this unique moment and our deep connection to the digital world. “Aren’t we on the screen and on the phone?” he asked after the presentation. “I don’t think it’s about futurism. It’s about reflecting yourself.” Some of the looks were covered with old computer keys. Dresses and bodysuits were sprinkled with pictures of tropical beaches and trapped goldfish. Some pieces were oversized, torn, frayed, distressed, and some had wire hangers woven into the fabric. These looks seemed like a commentary on its absurdity and the impact digital disconnection and consumerism has on our world and mind. Of course, Anderson couldn’t complete his show without a modest tribute to the Queen. A T-shirt that reads ‘Her Majesty the Queen, 1926-2022, thank you’.
Richard Quinn: How to Build a Collection in 10 Days
Richard Quinn doesn’t do black unless it’s a latex catsuit. Calling it a “labor of love” and “catharsis,” the designer and his six cores, his team and his twenty volunteers spent a total of ten days, and in honor of the Queen’s death, he made twenty I made a new costume near me. But Quinn was more connected to her than anyone else: On her 2018 debut, the late monarch announced her legacy to Britain’s emerging fashion designer, the first Queen Elizabeth II. I gave him the Queen Design Award. Since then, Quinn has become one of England’s most exciting exports. The rest of the show’s ensemble did not disappoint, with quirky shoulder pads, triangular silhouettes, and 3D florals being some highlights.
Simone Rocha: Sweet dreams are made of tulle
Is Bale about to have a streetwear moment? If Simone Rocha has anything to say, the answer is yes. This season’s runway her presentation featured the Irish designer’s first complete menswear collection. Rocha mentioned the ceremony By placing tiered veils on the heads of several models (both male and female). Erdem took a similar approach in their shows, with models covered in long white or black confections.In this case the inspiration is Dust sheets covering museum collections.
Christopher Kane: Show me your body!
After a two-and-a-half-year hiatus, Christopher Kane is back on the runway, sporting a body odys odys. We used anatomy-inspired prints. Two of his most effective looks were in the middle of the presentation and featured hand musculature covering the model’s chest and pelvic areas. Aside from a biology class (or political statement, depending on how you look at it), Kane honored the Queen during the show. breathed (pun intended).
Nensi Dojaka: Tournament of Hearts
In one of the most talked about runway shows of the week, LVMH Prize winner Nensi Dojaka We have developed a fresh series of bodycon look. The Fashion East alum is known for her lingerie-inspired pieces, and this collection was a “continuation of the idea” that built on her constructions from past seasons (though not for Spring 2023). , which will feature lace for the first time and will actually wear shoes (manufacture). Dojaka has also used fabrics from other fashions her house to create sustainable dresses available in limited quantities. Emily Ratajkowski wore it to lead the show’s finale, and all models carried a lily of the valley spring as a tribute to the Queen.